My last full weekend features a trip up to Phnom Kulen National Park, which the kids love - especially when they’re packed into the back of two pick-ups for the 90 minute journey to the top of the mountain. En route we visit a temple, giving the kids 100 riel each (2p) for the donations box, and each offer up a prayer in exchange. The temples are a beautiful site, at the top of the mountain surrounded by jungle.
The park itself is quite off the tourist trail but loved by locals, especially at the weekend, who flock here to swim in its ice cold water - lovely in 40 degrees Celsius. You hire a sheltered picnic area, and either go for a swim or just relax by the river. The orphanage staff have packed a picnic of rice, meat and fruit which is usually accompanied by a bitter dip of salt and fish paste…er, acquired taste you might say.
On the route back one of our girls playfully taps me on the shoulder. In her hands is a thick roll of 100 riel notes which are hurriedly re-hidden back inside her pocket with the happiest of smiles, sweet money for a month. Start them young here, they do.
As the last week rolls on I have to brace myself for the final weekend. The farewells start with a party evening in celebration of the arrival of one of our chief benefactors, and a party is just what I need. The usual diet of pizza and Khmer pop is distributed along with some karaoke, which the kids love, as at least four of them perform a Cambodian X Factor to the cheers of the crowd. I know who I’d vote for, one young lady’s performance is more Bjork than Khmer. Amazing voice for one so young. My final evening produces the most beautiful sunset I have seen here in Siem Reap, as I make my way across town to say a final goodbye to the kids after six months here in Cambodia. I’ve seen other volunteers fall apart at this stage and I’m determined to be as strong as I can, knowing it’s likely to be a very long time before we’ll see each other again.
I’ve bonded strongly with the boys over the issue of football, and they’re really upset and nearly wrestle me to the ground in a communal (and rather sweaty-I pity whoever does the laundry) farewell hug. Next the girls, which takes a little longer as one of them rejoins the queue at the back on five separate occasions. Goodbyes are always painful, but after this length of time we have bonded, and it seems strange I won’t be hearing their excited Khmer jabber again. I accept that little spark of recognition from the baby, who is due for her cleft lip/palette surgery next month.
The route home takes me via Kuala Lumpur, a most unattractive city. Difficult and confusing to navigate, it offers little to tourism. It does have to be said though the Petronas Towers are a wonderful spectacle in the night sky - a walk through the park provides the best viewing points. On the other side stands a striking mosque with an imaginative open design, giving some character to the area. It’s only a one night stop before a comfortable flight home with Emirates via Dubai.
Soon I’m back in the arms of my ever long-suffering wife who has been kind enough to drive to Gatwick to collect me and my excessive luggage. It seems refreshingly cold, and as I step out of the car, finally home, I’m hit by the smell of the sea and the squawk of seagulls. Home at last!
It’s been a truly remarkable six months and I’ve treasured every minute. It’s my intention to set up a charity here in the UK to support the work in Cambodia and thus allow us to take advantage of UK tax law. Long term, I intend to remain involved in assisting new volunteers and fundraisers from within the UK. If you’re interested in helping us or keeping up to date, please drop me a line via the Argus, or become a friend of our Cambodia Orphan Fund Facebook page.
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