I don't know about you, but I get a real craving for puddings in winter. All those rich and gooey desserts that weren't appealing in summer become irresistable in the colder months. If you've stored pears, this recipe is a wonderful treat and works well at the end of the storage season when the pears may be getting a little wizened.

For the poached pears

2 tablespoons sugar

2 tablespoons light rum (optional)

2 ripe pears, about 1 pound (choose a variety that will retain its shape when poached) quartered, cored, and peeled

For the almond cream

1/2 cup sugar

3/4 cup whole blanched almonds

1/4 teaspoon salt

8 tablespoons butter, at room temperature 2 large eggs

8 3/4-inch-thick slices day-old brioche

1/4 cup good-quality bittersweet or semisweet chocolate chips (substitute 1 1/2 ounces chocolate, chopped or chilled and cut in shavings with a vegetable peeler)

Make the poached pears

Combine 1 cup water, the sugar, and rum, if using, in a medium saucepan. Bring to a simmer over medium heat. Add the pears to the saucepan. Once the mixture starts to simmer again, cook for 4 minutes, until cooked through and slightly translucent. Remove from heat and let cool.

Make the almond cream

Combine the sugar, almonds, and salt in a food processor and mix until finely ground. Add the butter and mix again until blended. Add the eggs one by one and process until creamy. (You can prepare the pears and almond cream up to a day in advance. Transfer to separate airtight containers, leaving the pears in the syrup, and refrigerate.)

Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C) and line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Remove the pear pieces from the syrup with a slotted spoon and slice them almost through thinly and horizontally, making sure they retain their shape.

Assemble and bake the brioche

Dip each side of the brioche slices lightly in the syrup. If the slices seem too fragile to be dipped without falling apart, use a pastry brush to coat.

Arrange on the baking sheet. Spread 2 tablespoons almond cream on each slice, working carefully to avoid tearing. Use the blade of a knife to lift each pear quarter, press gently on the slices of pear to fan them out, and transfer onto each piece of brioche.

Bake for 15 minutes, until the almond cream is set and golden. Transfer to a rack and let cool for 5 minutes. Sprinkle with chocolate chips and serve slightly warm or at room temperature.

In the unlikely event that you have leftovers, they will keep for up to a day, wrapped in foil and refrigerated. Reheat for 5 minutes in a 350°F/175°C oven.