In Vino Veritas

Whether alcohol loosens your lips, makes you more lucid or leads you to say things you regret come morning, there is no denying the ancient Romans had a point: in vino veritas – literally, “in wine, truth” – is a sentiment many a drinker will identify with.

It’s an appropriate name then for this new bar/restaurant in North Road which puts wine – in all its shapes, colours and sizes – centre stage.

Here you can plunge into a soft leather sofa, kick back and take your pick from an impressive range of new and old wines from around the world, including a choice of 18 different wines by the glass – red, white, rose, sparkling and sweet – from just £3.20.

The emphasis on wine and the salubrious surroundings, all dark woods and understated elegance, brings Hotel Du Vin to mind and it comes as no surprise to hear French owner Steve Pineau was the bar manager there for seven years.

He admits that’s where he learned everything he knows about wine.

But his passion for alcohol also extends to whiskey, of which there are countless varieties on offer and in the basement of the three-floor building, formerly Mojo’s, you will find a cosy, old-fashioned cocktail lounge with 85 different cocktails to choose from.

Classic cocktails from every era, from the 19th century through the Prohibition years right up to 2007, include the likes of mint julep, side car from the jazz era and the oh-somodern apple Martini.

Alongside the framed prints of magnificent wine cellars, oak barrels and cocktail bar staff armed with solid-silver shakers, the ubiquitous quotes from notorious boozers will speak volumes to those who love to drink.

“Alcohol may be man’s worst enemy, but the Bible says love your enemy,” said Frank Sinatra.

Who could argue with that? The building itself is situated at the end of North Road, a few doors down from Bill’s.

As well as the wine bar on street level and the cocktail lounge in the basement, you will find a bistro upstairs serving modern European food.

The chef, also a former Hotel Du Vin employee (he was a sous-chef) has designed a sophisticated yet unfussy menu.

Alternatively, if you prefer something lighter, you might like a salad or a couple of dishes from the tapas menu in the wine bar to have over a bottle of wine downstairs.

Either way, flexibility is key, says Steve.

All three floors are connected by an elegant spiral staircase and are interchangeable – that is, if you want to eat your three-course meal in the wine bar or take your cocktail upstairs, it’s entirely up to you.

“We are very informal,” says Steve.

“Relax, feel at home.

Basically we just want to give people good quality service and products without the ridiculous price tag.”

Sample the menu

Starters
Tian of aubergine caviar, slow roasted tomatoes, melted goats cheese, £5.75
Duo of seared foie gras and terrine, with a fig chutney, £7.25
Scallops and mango brochette with beetroot puree, £6.75
Main courses
Pan fried salmon, coconut rice with a fish and tomato veloute, £11.75
Lamb with piperade and thyme jus, £12.75
Goats cheese risotto, rocket and basil olive oil, £11.25
Desserts
Red wine poached pear, with a Darjeeling and prune sorbet, £5.50
Lemon mille feuille, cardamom ice cream, £5.50
Choco mousse with exotic salad and Coco Anglaise sauce, £5.50
Tapas and salads Charcuterie: serrano, saucisson, pork rillette, bresoala, £4.50
Tomato, aubergine, courgette and gruyere tart, £4.25
Grilled sardine on thyme bread and basil pesto, £4.25
Autumn salad with walnut, pear, blue cheese and honey caramelised apples, £6.25

Open Mon to Sat 11am-2am and Sun 11am-11pm.