High Street, Rye, 01797 222114

A luxurious boutique hotel in the middle of ancient Rye, The George is a haven of style.

From the super, roomy L-shaped leather Chesterfield sofa in the bar (better known as The Tap), to the cool, solarised Beatles prints in the lobby, it oozes expensive taste and a Wallpaper magazine-like aesthetic.

Owners Alex and Katie Clarke – a former film set designer – are rumoured to have spent in excess of £1m renovating the 16th-Century former coaching inn, and it shows.

Even the hinges on the toilet doors look like they might have been pilfered from an interior design shoot.

To experience the full monty food wise – that is a Sussex Breakfast made from at least 60 per cent local, seasonal ingredients, as well as lunch, afternoon tea and dinner – probably entails spending the night.

But even if you just go for one of the above mealtimes, make sure you explore all The George has to offer in terms of comfort and seating arrangements.

The varied options are equally alluring.

Enjoy a pint of real ale or a cool glass of organic wine from the nearby Sedlescombe Vineyard in the relaxed, wood-panelled bar before eating in the sophisticated dining room or, weather permitting, reserve a seat outside in the cacti-filled courtyard.

After dessert, the best place for a cafe noisette (hazelnut liqueur, long espresso, hot milk topped with chocolate and whipped cream, £4) or fresh mint tea has to be the cosy sitting room with its old-fashioned oil paintings, upholstered armchairs and regal fireplace.

In charge of the kitchen is head chef Rod Grossman, poached from Alex’s sister Sam’s restaurant Moro, in London.

His menu makes the most of local produce, from tender Romney Marsh lamb to fresh fish from sustainable stocks at Rye Bay.

So far so good.

The menu warns, however, that you may have to wait for your meal for a bit longer than you might expect as everything is cooked from scratch, and a 50-minute wait between a starter (a salad of fine green beans, shavings of parmesan cheese and mixed green leaves) and the main course from a set lunch menu (£13 for two courses) was keenly felt.

When it did finally arrive, the sea bream a la Provencale was delicious, intensely flavoured and well cooked.

Lunchtime portions aren’t huge, however, and if you are hungry, ensure you make a point of ordering something to fill the gap.

Some salted almonds with paprika (£2) or home-made pork scratchings (£2) should take the edge off the wait, and if you are still not satisfied, what better excuse than to indulge in a dessert or the cheese board?

Sample the menu


Starters
Spring pea soup with crispy pancetta, £5.50
Dressed crab with sourdough toast and local leaf salad, £6.50
Chargrilled squid with harissa sauce and rocket salad £6.50
Mains
Chargrilled Romney Marsh lamb with patatas a lo pobre and watercress salad, £16.50
Slow roasted belly of pork with roast vegetables and apple sauce, £16
Chargrilled sea bass with saffron fondant potato and samphire, £16.50
Desserts
Chocolate, almond and Armagnac cake, £5
Homemade Seville orange ice cream, £4
Homemade Pinot Noir sorbet, £4
Open daily from 8am-3pm and 6pm-9pm.