We were drinking coffee in the old port when I received a text from a friend in Brighton asking if I fancied a drink. I replied that it wouldn’t be possible because I was in Dubrovnik.
“Dubrovnik?” came the reply. “Is that in Russia?” There seemed to be some confusion and it wasn’t the first time. I was researching Dubrovnik in the office when a friend and learned colleague came over, looked at the pictures and said: “I didn’t realise Poland was by the sea. What a lovely beach.”
I informed her it wasn’t Poland, it was Dubrovnik.
“I thought Dubrovnik was in Poland,” she said. So, just to make it perfectly clear to everyone with hazy geography, Dubrovnik is not in Russia or Poland. It’s in Croatia, it’s beautiful and full of surprises.
The first surprise was the weather. Before leaving I checked the five-day forecast. Rain, thunderstorms, dark clouds and more rain. We packed all our warmest clothes and even sneaked in a couple of pacamacs – I know, how cool! So it was a revelation when we arrived to a beautiful clear, sunny and very hot day.
We put on our inappropriate clothing (nothing a few turn-ups couldn’t sort out) and headed for the heart of the city.
The walled city is closed to traffic and as you enter Pile Gate you are faced with a wonderful pedestrian walkway which leads to the far end of the city and the clock tower. It’s like going back in time – the streets are cobbled, the buildings are tall and all around are the famous city walls. We took a moment to sit by the huge Onofrio Fountain with a group of elderly Croatian men who were smoking and humming along to a busker playing the mandolin. We dropped a couple of kunas – Croatia still has its own currency – in his hat and set off for the walls.
These walls have protected Dubrovnik since the 8th century.
They are known to be the finest in the world and no visit is complete without a walk along them. This was unfortunate for me because I am a little (very) scared of heights. They are up to 25m high in places, but I had to brave it. Luckily the walls are also very thick – six metres in parts – so I felt quite safe as long as I didn’t look over the edge. It was well worth the entry price of 50 kuna (about £6) as the views were breathtaking. On one side you can see for miles over the Adriatic and some of the 1,000 or so islands that stretch along the Croatian coast. On the other you can see the whole city, the tops of its churches and the countless towers and roofs all made from the city’s famous light-coloured stone.
It is incredible to think that, in the eight months from October 1991 to May 1992, this city was under siege and faced constant shelling.
The only evidence of the destruction is a patchwork of different coloured tiles and new roofs on top of the medieval structures below.
The walk took us about two and a half hours but we were in no rush and took our time to visit some of the cafés and bars that pepper the walls.
Here we sampled some of Croatia’s traditional plum brandy, which tasted a bit like fire water and certainly packed a punch, but helped me gain my head for heights. We strolled back into the old town to watch an amazing sunset at Buzza II, an open-air bar cut into the side of the rock with stunning sea views.
Our legs were still aching later that night as we went out to see what the restaurants and nightlife had to offer. We were keen to sample some traditional fare but were surprised by one menu where the starter included “smoked Dalmatian and melon”.
Happily, it turned out to be ham from Dalmatia and not a spotty dog!
I went for a fresh salad with grilled shrimps and my partner opted for the marinaded octopus, Dalmatian style. We washed the delicious food down with some Ozujsko – Croatian lager – and it all came to a very respectable 80 kuna a head (about £9).
The city lights of Dubrovnik are spectacular at night and after dinner we wandered around admiring the beautiful and dramatic sights of the illuminated monastery, galleries and churches that make this perfectly preserved city a Unesco world heritage site.
You can escape the hustle of the city with a ten-minute boat trip over to Lokrum Island, where there are no houses or hotels. It is home to a ruined but beautiful Benedictine monastery and a botanical garden with a huge number of tropical and subtropical plants.
We explored some of the secluded beaches and coves before stopping at the café by the monastery to sample some mouthwatering squid and black rice. The return trip offers an enchanting view of Dubrovnik from outside the city walls and is well worth the money, 40 kuna (about £5), for this alone.
Whether you go to Dubrovnik for a city break or take two weeks to explore the rich cultural history and beautiful coastline and beaches, you are guaranteed a wonderful time. A visit to the place Lord Byron named “the pearl of the Adriatic” won’t cost you an arm and a leg either. Prices in Dubrovnik remain lower than other cities and the kuna is still providing good value against the euro.
Just remember when you’re booking – it’s not in Poland or Russia.
- We travelled with easyJet which flies to Dubrovnik direct from Gatwick from £26.99 (one way including taxes). For more information visit the website, www.easyjet.com.
- We stayed at the Dubrovnik President (00385 52465400; www.valamar.com) on the Babin Kuk headland, a 15-minute bus ride from the old town. From 65 euros for a double room, including buffet breakfast.
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