Brighton: Steakhouse in The Lanes is a hidden gem

Kindling in Brighton reopened its doors under new ownership this year led by head chef Ewan Cullen.

The menu at the East Street restaurant is centred on its steaks cooked on a natural, additive-free charcoal grill, accompanied by other meals such as burgers, salads and vegetarian options.

We visited to try out the new menu and the fresh revamp of the restaurant.

We were looked after by Minky Lee for the evening, who co-manages the restaurant with Ramin Mostowfi.

Upon entering the restaurant, the intimate but inviting atmosphere made you feel immediately welcome.

The restaurant is intimate and cosy with modern decor (Image: The Argus) The restaurant is tastefully decorated with hanging, green foliage and warmly lit with dim lamps and candles, the perfect place for a relaxed date night or cosy evening with friends and family.

Guests can also watch chefs prepare their food over the coals and live fire in the open kitchen.

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The menu is simple but effective, with a selection of snacks such as olives and focaccia to start, followed by a choice of three steaks, burgers, or a salad.

We chose a bottle of the New Zealand Topuku Sauvignon blanc to accompany the meal and went for the grilled focaccia with Kindling signature coriander, lemon and garlic hummus, as well as the brisket and jalapeño croquettes with tomato basil dip, to kick things off.

Focaccia with hummus and brisket and jalapeño croquettes (Image: The Argus)My favourite element of the starters had to be the hummus - it was fragrant and delicate, a perfect complement to the crispy focaccia.

The croquettes were also a hit too, made even better by the tangy tomato and basil sauce.

For main courses, we went for a sirloin steak (£20), with four peppercorn sauce. We ordered a ribeye (£25) with blue stilton sauce, both 28-day aged. On the side, we picked the classic skinny fries and the tenderstem broccoli with Parmesan, Caesar dressing and a garlic crumb. Sauces and fries are extra on the menu by the way

The ribeye cut was a real treat - the meat was soft and delicate but had a nice crust. The blue Stilton was complementary to the flavours of the meat and one we enjoyed dipping the fries into.

The sirloin was nicely seasoned and was elevated by the classic peppercorn sauce. Both cuts were ordered medium rare and cooked perfectly.

Dessert was the portion we were most looking forward to, having ordered a chocolate molten cake with hazelnut ice cream and a basque cheesecake with cherry coulis and a brandy snap.

The basque cheesecake (Image: The Argus)The cheesecake was one of the best I have ever tasted. It contained a soufflé-like, velvety cheese filling that melted away like a dream, while the coulis and crunchy element added dimension.

Meanwhile, the cake was a chocolate-lover’s dream. In the middle of the fondant was a deliciously nutty chocolate filling, surrounded by a delicate sponge. The hazelnut ice cream was a welcome addition too, offsetting the rich dish.

Our time at the Kindling was relaxed and fulfilling, a cosy little spot that will remain on our list of go-to Brighton eateries.