I tried The Pass' incredible Michelin Star restaurant in Horsham

South Lodge hotel in Horsham features three bespoke restaurants, Camellia, a diner with three AA Rosettes and a seasonal menu, Botanica, a dairy-free and health-focused Mediterranean-inspired restaurant using South Downs produce, and The Pass, an intimate restaurant with a deluxe tasting menu.

The Pass is led by chef Ben Wilkinson and was awarded a Michelin Star as well as four AA Rosettes in just seven months. 

Ben reopened The Pass in August 2022 after leading The Cottage in the Wood in the Lake District as head chef.

We were invited to try the seven-course tasting menu curated by Ben, featuring a range of rich and flavoursome dishes.

The restaurant is next to the kitchen, which is surrounded by glass panels for guests to watch their dishes being meticulously constructed.

Ben Wilkinson, head chef at The Pass (Image: The Pass)

Upon arrival, we were greeted by Monika Zurawska, who leads the front of house team and looked after us for the evening.

To start, we requested a dry white wine recommendation and were poured a glass of ‘Thymiopoulos’, a 2023 Greek wine and a new addition to the restaurant’s extensive list, which was refreshing and crisp, a perfect accompaniment to the evening’s dishes.

First up on our tasting journey were canapes. The dishes were brought to the tables by the chefs from the kitchen and head chef Ben himself presented us with the first course, consisting of nests of tomato, caviar and oyster crème, a mini tuna salad, crusted pork belly and cheese pastry parcels.

A range of canapes (Image: The Argus)

All three kicked off the experience perfectly- the seafood components were fresh and delicate, the pork was rich and the cheese parcel melted in your mouth.

For the second course, it was a Mylor prawn salad made up of tomato, scallops, green olive puree and garden herbs.

As someone that isn’t a big tomato fan, they were the best tomatoes I have ever tasted. The freshness shone through and the dish was complemented by a frozen component.

Mylor prawn salad (Image: The Argus)

Course three was the first main of the evening, consisting of sourdough bread, a beef tartare parcel and a celeriac and truffle dish accompanied by hen of the woods mushrooms and braised beef cheek.

We were also served a glass of rich, warm beef broth to go with it.

The beef tartare was tangy and delicate, aided by a layer of crunchy fried sourdough, while the beef cheek dish was incredibly flavoursome, perfectly matched with the broth.

The beef course with beef cheek, tartare and broth (Image: The Argus)

Next up for course four was a dish named the ‘day boat turbot’, consisting of turbot fish, squid, dulse seaweed, jersey royal potatoes and oscietra caviar, coated in a sparkling wine sauce.

The fish was delicate and melt in your mouth, while the potatoes were soft and buttery, pairing well with the caviar.

For our last main dish, we were served a crisp lamb belly salad accompanied by lamb loin, a sweetbread dumpling and vegetables, a rich and flavoursome medley that left us satisfied and ready for something sweet.

Lamb loin (Image: The Argus)

The first dessert of the evening was a strawberry sorbet complemented by ewe’s milk curd and elderflower - a welcome refresher after the range of flavours over the five courses.

As a lover of sorbet, this was a dish I was looking forward to and it didn't disappoint. The freshness of the strawberry shone through, while the elderflower and mint was a fragrant and welcome addition.

The last dish of the evening was the showstopper for me - the chocolate délice. This treat featured a chocolate and almond circle topped with sorbet and accompanied by a dash of marzipan.

The chocolate délice (Image: The Argus)

The dish was rich and indulgent, with the intense chocolate taste offset perfectly by the sweet cherry sorbet.

To finish off the evening, we were brought a range of petit fours accompanied by ginger and matcha kombucha, at which point I was ready to go to bed with a very satisfied palette. 

The experience at The Pass was personalised, luxury and exploratory - during our time there, we tasted unique flavours and were given a bespoke service from the front of house team. 

READ MORE: Brighton Natural Wine Fair returns to city next month

It was clear that each dish and the sequence they are served in has been carefully curated by Ben to achieve the ultimate menu.

Monika was friendly and warm and made our experience completely comfortable, catering to our every need. The fact that the restaurant only seats 28 diners makes your time there all the more personal. 

The restaurant itself is tastefully decorated with colourful paintings and modern embellishments, while the whole experience was elevated by the fact that you can see Ben and his team putting your dishes together. 

The Pass in South Lodge is a hidden gem nestled in Horsham and is a must visit for those after an indulgent and intimate tasting menu experience.