When we think of eating out for breakfast in the UK, our minds probably conjure up greasy spoons, flaky croissants or various forms of sweet and savoury brunches.
We wouldn’t, for example, think straight away of naan bread filled with Indian-spiced sausages. Or lavishly buttered bread dipped in chai tea.
But maybe we should. And that is a message that the Permit Room is trying – and succeeding – to sell.
An offshoot of the ever-popular Dishoom brand, Permit Room prides itself on its small plates, but its early-morning menu has a refreshing hit of spice in dishes filled with familiar breakfast fare.
From our visit, the eatery’s roof terrace nestled in The Lanes in Brighton is as nice a place to enjoy your meal as any. Incense filled the air and the sun shone through the gaps in the covered terrace as we sat and waited for our food to arrive.
The service was attentive as we sipped on chai tea and fresh orange juice while we basked in the sun. The warmly spiced chai, slightly stronger than what you would get in a coffee shop, felt well-suited to the clear summer morning.
It was also bottomless, a perk we made sure to indulge in, and paired well with the Bun Maska Chai, a soft brioche-style bun slathered with butter and designed to be dunked in the drink.
Permit Room’s breakfast is dominated by the Naan Roll, a Dishoom creation which takes everything you would find in a breakfast roll and wraps it in the pillowy Indian bread with cream cheese and tomato-chilli jam.
The runny yolk of the wrap oozed into the rest of the fillings as we bit in, mingling with the jam and creating a delicious, sweet-yet-spicy concoction.
We also tried the Akuri Pau, a Bombay take on scrambled eggs peppered with tomatoes, onions and chilli. Served with two small buns, the eggs were rich, creamy and reasonably spiced to leave some heat at the back of your throat but not feel overwhelming.
Overall, the Permit Room breakfast served as a tasty alternative for anyone wanting something a little different from their first meal of the day.
Whether you love spice or prefer the fragrant smells of Indian cooking, breakfast in the sun on the roof is surely worth a try.
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