Kindling review: Delightful Michelin food in East Street, Brighton

Kindling, in East Street in Brighton, has worked its way into the 2022 Michelin Guide using fresh, locally sourced ingredients.

Priding themselves on an ever-changing menu reflecting the day’s produce, chefs Holly Taylor and Toby Geneen have created a restaurant where summer, autumn and winter unite for a delightful dining experience.

Grilled Sussex king oyster mushroom, aerated potato, puffed black rice, truffle (Image: NQ Staff)

Described as “fiercely seasonal” by Geneen, one element key to many of the daily menus is preservation and fermentation. Using its own “fermentation lab”, Kindling can preserve unseasonal ingredients to add a summery hit to winter menus. On the day we ate, this was fermented plums, paired with ricotta and hazelnuts.

Combined with the light fruity tang of plum, the rich, creamy ricotta adds a depth to the dish. The hazelnuts add a real mix of textures creating a summery, well-weighted dish.

Moving through the seasons, we come to grilled Sussex king oyster mushrooms, served on a bed of aerated potatoes and topped with puffed black rice and truffle.

Adding a meaty feel to a vegan dish can be challenging, but the king oyster does just that. Much like a well-cooked steak, a tough exterior hides a soft inside, and the smoky flavour from the wood-fire grilled oyster is very pleasing.

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The aerated potato is light and soft, and the puffed black rice adds a crunchy texture which brings the dish together. It is easy to see why this dish has proved a popular addition to the menu according to Taylor and Geneen.

As the days get shorter, winter vegetables are the order of the day with grilled romesco cauliflower, paired with a fermented pepper sauce and toasted almonds.

Grilled Romanesco cauliflower, fermented red pepper sauce, toasted almonds (Image: Kindling)

The cauliflower provides a crunchy, seasonal base to an unseasonal sauce packed with flavour. The summery hit from the sauce is a lovely reminder that preservation can combine with seasonality in a simple yet effective dish.

Overall, Kindling provides a comforting dining experience that suits the changing seasons. By putting locally sourced ingredients at the forefront of the menu, the restaurant really shows what locally sourced ingredients and some creative sustainability can produce.