Over the past few decades, the English wine industry has grown dramatically with more than 650 vineyards across the country. Nick Mosley talks to Alex Notman-Watt of Wiston Estate in Pulborough about how the coronavirus lockdown has affected one of the county’s largest vineyards and what the future holds for the industry

Nestled in the heart of England’s rolling South Downs, the beautiful Wiston Estate has been in the hands of the Goring family since 1743 and is presided over today by Harry and Pip Goring. The estate is managed by their son Richard and both he and his wife Kirsty are now involved in the day-to-day running of the vineyard and winery.

The original 6.5 hectare vineyard was the long-held vision of Pip and is the fruit of her tenacity and dream, alongside her passion for sustainable farming.

Today, winemaker Dermot Sugrue is at the helm with his team, producing award-winning English Sparking wine from the classic Champagne grapes of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier that thrive well on the limestone soils and climate of the South Downs.

Wiston’s recent accolades including best in show at the Decanter World Wine Awards and the prestigious best sparkling trophy at the independent 2019 English Wine Awards.

Like much of the UK economy, the English wine industry has been significantly affected by coronavirus.

About half of Wiston’s sales are to trade – including vintners, restaurants, bars and hotels.

In Sussex, restaurants such as 64 Degrees and Etch have been long-term stockists and supporters and these premium sparkling wines have also found a home at some of the UK’s leading fine dining restaurants including Heckfield Place in Hampshire, the Hand and Flowers in Marlow, Spring by Skye Gyngell and the Oxo Tower in London, and Simon Rogan’s L’Enclume in the Lake District.

Wiston wines can also be found at Harvey Nichols department stores.

“Our customers in hospitality and our distributors who sell our wines to them are hugely important to us,” said Alex Notman-Watt, sales director of Wiston Estate.

“We have built close relationships with them over the years and they have been amazing ambassadors for our wines, as well as becoming friends. When all bars, restaurants and hotels were closed, it created great uncertainty for the hospitality industry. It’s therefore incredibly important to us that we support where we can.”

This support from the winery for the hospitality industry has taken various forms including an online chef recipe series, working with chefs including MasterChef winner, Kenny Tutt, Heritage’s Matt Gillan and Alex’s husband Michael Notman-Watt from The Syndicate Kitchen.

They are also supporting key workers in the NHS with a discount on wines plus free delivery.

With the closure of its cellar door tastings and vineyard tours, Wiston is also engaging more with consumers via social media. Head winemaker Dermot will be hosting a series of virtual tastings over the coming months, with the next featuring blanc de blancs on Thursday, May 21, at 8pm. “The present situation has given us the opportunity to look at everything in a fresh light,” said Alex.

“One of the most interesting new developments are virtual tours and tastings. If our customers can’t come to us, we can reach out to them and share insights about our winemaking year that perhaps they wouldn’t get to see in normal circumstances. Basically, our customers are being let into a few estate secrets.”

Though wine tourism is a growing sector in Sussex, the vineyard has also had to put some expansion plans on hold for the moment.

“Prior to lockdown, we were in the middle of a major development project, improving the winery and building a visitors’ centre, which was due to open early next year,” said Alex. “The brakes have now been put on the works. It is likely now that the opening of the centre will be pushed into early summer next year, when hopefully everyone will be allowed out to come and experience it.”

When the lockdown is relaxed, business of all shapes and sizes are going to be challenged by not only socially distancing consumers but also their staff. The farming of vines and production of wine is no exception, whether during the summer or in the autumn when it is time to harvest the grapes in Sussex.

“We are a very small team at Wiston, so it is easier to keep socially distant, but vines and winemaking stop for no one,” said Alex. “Now is one of the most important parts of the vine-growing season: buds have burst and the vines are beginning to grow. Our vineyard manager, James McLean, has been working in isolation out in the vineyard since lockdown, tending carefully to our vines.

“It’s hard to know what the world will be like around come the end of September, beginning of October. However, we envisage that it will be more complicated as it will involve bringing in temporary staff.”

The resilience of the English wine industry is still an unknown, but exports are still strong – Wiston export around 15 per cent of its product to international markets – and UK consumer interest in the product is unlikely to drop. The English wine industry has really come together during lockdown to raise awareness and to help support our growing, local industry to keep producing award-winning wines,” said Alex.

“We’re looking forward to the upcoming #EnglishWineNight on Instagram and Twitter on Friday, May 15, at 7pm which is celebrating wines produced in the South East.”