The relationship with our French neighbours may be somewhat strained given the ongoing Brexit negotiations but here in Brighton, the Franco foodie pact has never been stronger.

A day of dining can start with a stellar breakfast at Mange Tout, followed by luxurious platters at Plateau and rounded off with some macaroons from Julien Plumart.

And last month the city welcomed yet another restaurant to the ranks – a family run establishment specialising in small plates style French tapas.

This week The Gourmand is dining at Petit Pois in Ship Street.

Opened just over a month ago, Petit Pois is the creation of husband and wife duo David and Ivana Roy, formerly head chef and front of house at Riddle and Finns.

Hailing from the French town of Royan, David trained at the three Michelin starred Restaurant Marc Veyrat in the Alps, and the one starred Domaine de Bournissac, near Avignon.

After his seven year stint at the seafood stalwarts Riddle and Finns, he decided to try heading up his own kitchen.

It’s a miserable excuse for a summer evening when we visit. The wind has whipped the bin bags up into a frenzy and the seagulls have that glazed demented stare. We can’t get inside quick enough and at 6pm on a Monday night, the place is understandably empty. But this doesn’t last long.

Over the course of the two-hour sitting, the wooden chairs around us gradually fill and the beautiful little space is abuzz and glowing.

The interiors are all blue and white tiles, with a huge gilt framed mirror across one wall. But the interior design flourish that gets the most brownie points is a T-rex sized pig’s leg adorning the kitchen counter, waiting to be carved.

There are plenty of familiar classics on the menu – frog’s legs and steak tartare – with some more adventurous twists along the way.

Of the eight dishes we pick, just one left us feeling underwhelmed, so we’ll get it out of the way first. Three small scallops sit in a pool of green liquor, encircled by streaks of charred leeks and passion fruit splodges. The scallops are well cooked, caramelised on the outside and just translucent in the centre. But the stringy, burned leeks are fiddly and awkward to eat and the lip puckeringly sour passion fruit drowns out the delicate seafood flavour.

But on to the good bits – and there are plenty. You smell the cauliflower soup before you see it, a lusty waft of truffle oil and toasted almonds. It’s not the biggest portion, but it’s rich and heady with lashings of cream and the crunch and chew of croutons.

A bread basket, soft white rounds of baguette, is just right for dipping, with salty olive tapenade and a tangy mayonnaise accompaniment.

If the soup was a gentle caress, the pork stew is a big man hug. The cheek has the texture of meat that’s been well acquainted with red wine and a slow cooker. Knives are merely a formality. That’s not to say the dish lacks texture – the carrots are al dente and the pearl onions burst with sweetness. Crispy pancetta brings a last meaty kick for good measure.

It doesn’t quite seem right to call it tapas – essentially as it’s just a smaller portion of a big hearty dish. Rather than a snack sized dish focusing on one ingredient, their menu is more like Lilliputian versions of a complete meal. Not at all a bad thing, just unusual.

There’s an elegant heirloom salad, sliced tomatoes assembled in an ombre sunset of red, orange and yellow. Salty goat’s cheese bon bons are all crispy shell and fluffy, salty innards.

The minute steak is cooked to a perfect medium. The meat portion is a little on the small side – four dainty slices and a big old pile of chips. But the pot of Béarnaise sauce is just right, sharp and moreish enough to drizzle on everything. Soft garlicky tomatoes lurk on the plate’s perimeter. Some greenery wouldn’t have gone astray, but we struggled on with just meat and carbs.

Puddings are unapologetically classical. A hot chocolate fondant oozes indecently, with silky pistachio ice cream and a hearty scattering of crushed pistachios for bite. The café gourmand is a selection of three small pudding tasters – a creamy date and Armagnac brulee, a decadent chocolate truffle and a perfectly pleasant raspberry and chocolate macaroon. All accompanied by a strong nutty espresso shot.

It’s just the right finish to just the right meal. Not completely faultless, but very close. And it shouldn’t go unmentioned that the service was charming, friendly and helpful.

So while May and Macron may not be making friends and a trip across the Channel has never been frostier, one thing is for certain, there’s a warm – and delicious – French welcome waiting for you in Ship Street.

  • The Gourmand pays for his meals.

PETIT POIS, SHIP STREET, BRIGHTON

Food: ★★★★☆ 

Atmosphere: ★★★★☆ 

Service: ★★★★☆