IT’S hard to imagine now but growing up, The Gourmand did not get to visit a curry house.

Not until heading off to university was it that one tasted a nice spicy meal at what we always called an “Indian” restaurant.

I still remember that first one.

It was late at night after a trip to the students’ union. The bar had shut and there were few places you could get a late drink.

A friend of mine guided us through the dark streets and into a restaurant which had bright orange wallpaper and curtains.

Through the smokey restaurant you could just about make out the faces of fellow diners.

Were they there for a late drink or to eat?

Definitely the drink.

But when we ordered a meal everything changed.

I must have just received my student grant to be so carefree with the cash.

But I think it was my first ever chicken korma and it was a revelation

It felt exotic. A world away from my mother’s roast dinners.

Tucking into a meal at the Bengal Palace, there was a moment not dissimilar to the scene in the film Ratatouille, where critic Anton Ego tastes the food and is transported back to the moment he took a bite from one of his beloved mother’s dishes as a child growing up in the French countryside.

Taking a mouthful at the Bengal Palace, The Gourmand was taken back to being a long-haired student.

The spice, the flavour, the chicken. A whole new world of food to somebody who had not had the chance to try it before.

Obviously the orange wallpaper and curtains are long gone.

There’s no smoke or any sign of a Zippo lighter and a packet of 20 Marlboro reds on the table.

But that wonderful feeling of enjoying a tasty curry provided just the same sensation.

And in fact the Bengal Palace is a bright and airy restaurant. Almost unrecognisable from the curry houses of old.

But crucially for those who love their korma, madras or chicken tikka masala – or my personal favourite the chicken tikka ceylon –the main menu has all those dishes.

The poppadom sauces were wonderful.

The king prawn tikka starter with huge butterfly prawns was a great next course. As was the chicken tikka.

Then there is the Adventure in Taste menu.

On the advice of one of the two helpful waiters I went for the chicken chettinad. I was told it was like their Xacuti dish – which has roasted star anise, javitri and fenugreek seeds with special Goan red chillies, coconut and cinnamon. But this one was a little spicier.

The fear with curries is that you get something which is not as nice as your favourite. But with its rich sauce and spicy finish it went down perfectly. It was complemented by the peshwari naan bread and lime rice.

My eating partner’s palace masala – also on the Adventures in Taste menu – was flavoursome with a nice and rich tomato and butter sauce.

From the main menu we could not resist trying the chicken tikka masala just to see. And yes it was wonderful.

The side dish kumb mutter – mushroom and chickpeas cooked in coriander and cumin – was a great addition.

I understand the chefs at the Bengal Palace do not use the same base sauce for lots of dishes like many places do.

And the service is fantastic too.

Why do curry restaurants put so many other places to shame in this respect?

Smiling, happy waiters instead of sulky part timers with no interest in their job.

We were too full by now to try the dessert menu.

But to sum up, the Bengal Palace has everything you want from a traditional curry restaurant. And the Adventure in Taste menu is exactly that.

I want to return to try the lamb chops, salmon and duck dishes on there.

It had been a while since I had eaten a curry so wanted to try the chicken but will be sure to be more adventurous next time.

It was such a shame it was empty on the Monday night that we were there.

  • The Gourmand always pays for his meals.

BENGAL PALACE, CHURCH STREET, SEAFORD

Food – ★★★★ (out of five)

Service – ★★★★

Atmosphere – ★★

MENU SAMPLE

Four poppadoms with chutney – £4

Plain nan – £2.65

Peshwari nan (with raisins) – £2.85

Chicken tikka – £4.25

King prawn tikka – £6.95

Palace masala – £11.95

Half portion chicken tikka masala – £5.95

Chicken chettinad – £11.95

Kumb mutter – £4.95