Making the garden look rosy

Pruning roses is not rocket science but you do have to take care which types you prune so make sure you know which sort of rose you have - is it rambling, climbing, bush or shrub?

Don't prune rambling roses in spring unless they are seriously out of control or you'll lose this year's flowers. Ramblers should generally be pruned immediately after flowering.

Climbers should be pruned in the autumn to tidy them up and allow you to tie them in before winter.

But you can cut bush rose stems down to their bases to allow light and air in, reducing the chances of disease and pest problems and encouraging healthy growth.

First remove any dead or diseased stems, or those crossing in the centre of the bush, cut out weak shoots and prune last year's shoots to within 5-8cm (2-3in) of previous year's growth.

Shrub roses, which produce a lot of stems with a bushy or semitrailing habit, can also be pruned now. First prune dead or diseased stems, cutting to stem junctions or healthy buds and thin central shoots, cutting one or two main stems to the base.

Most modern shrub roses don't need pruning as hard as others, as they flower on older stems. The aim is simply to remove congested stems which were produced the previous year and to prune a few of the oldest stems down to the ground.

Some sideshoots can be pruned by just a few centimetres, cutting above a healthy outward facing but away from the centre of the plant.

Patio roses, ideal for containers or at the front of borders, can be pruned now to encourage a mass of new shoots that will flower in summer. The plant's height should be reduced by a quarter to a half to create an open shape. First cut back the outer stems, then removed dead and diseased growths and crossing stems.

You should always prune above a strong, outward facing bud but if possible make sure the cuts are sloping so that rain water runs away from the bud, so reducing the risk of it rotting.

The simple framework you leave should allow plenty of air circulation and therefore reduce the risk of fungal disease.

Old garden roses such as Rosa rugosa, R. Boule de Neige and R.

Charles de Mills, can also be pruned in early spring. Again they dont need severe pruning, but you should reduce the size of the plant by a third, making sloping cuts above outward-facing buds.

Hybrid tea roses such as R.

Deep Secret and R. "Silver Jubilee", which flower more than once during the summer, do well when they are hard pruned in early spring, leaving between three and five strong stems around 15cm (6in) above the ground.

When you have pruned your roses, mulch around them with well-rotted farmyard manure.

Once your roses are in bloom, deadhead them as they fade to encourage repeat flowering. The easiest way to do this is by bending the stem just below the faded flower until it snaps off. If that won't work, use secateurs to remove the flower and around 15cm (6in of growth).

Primula are a must for early spring colour, coming in a massive range of shades which will suit every scheme, whether you want to feature them in containers, put some in your rock garden or near a pond.

Garden centres are now awash with the most popular type, the polyanthus, or P. variabilis, a hybrid of the common primrose and the cowslip, which is bigger and brighter than its relatives and can add sparkle to any spring container combined with variegated ivy, skimmia and narcissus.

For a contemporary effect, plant deep pink varieties such as P. Wanda along with dark leaved heuchera such as Stormy Seas and silver-leaved evergreen Convolvulus cneorum, in a silver metal container.

A favourite is the drumstick primrose, P. denticulata, which produces a big ball of lavender flowers, but you can also go for the more unusual candelabra primulas include P. Harlow Carr hybrids, which grow up to 60cm (2ft) high, forming in tiers up the upright stems in late spring. These do well in bog gardens or near a pond, thriving in most soils in a moist border and enjoy light, dappled shade.