Despite the mere hour’s flight from Bangkok, Chiang Mai really could have been a million miles away.
The second largest city in Thailand, Chiang Mai is the most significant city culturally and has a wonderful laidback Thai quality about it. The charming moated city centre is full of stunning chedi and wats (temples), each more beautiful, vibrant and architecturally impressive than the previous.
Wat Phra Singh is the most visited and owes its fame to housing the most revered Buddha image (Lion Buddha) as well as some of the most impressive Lanna art, dating back to 1360. This really is a photographer’s paradise.
Allow for comfortable footwear as walking is the best way to fully appreciate the city. The Sunday Walking Street Market is quite a spectacle with more than 7,000 stalls over four kilometers. My senses were piqued by the multitude of colours, smells, and din of music and languages from all over the globe.
I took the opportunity to relax on a street corner, in the midst of all this activity, to treat myself to a foot massage, soaking up not only the atmosphere but the very welcome sensation of having one’s tootsies rubbed!
With six days to enjoy Chiang Mai, I had plenty of time to venture into the lush countryside as I was eager to explore what lay beyond the city limits.
There are a plethora of very affordable tours and I opted to visit The Golden Triangle, the meeting point of Myanmar (Burma), Laos and Thailand (infamous for the opium runs of days gone by) and via the most exquisite Thai Buddhist temple of them all, Wat Rong Khun (The White Temple). Painted pure white with millions of glistening glass fragments, it has a surreal, fairytale quality and is truly a magnificent sight to behold.
We weaved our way through steep but well-maintained roads to visit two of the Hill tribes in the area – the Hmong and Karen people, who live their customary lives, selling beautiful handicrafts learned from previous generations. Although they rely on selling to visitors, they have, for the most part, avoided the temptation of adopting Western culture and retain the simple customs passed down over centuries.
If you can include a visit to the Elephant Nature Park, I would highly recommend it. A true rescue sanctuary for domestic elephants, it cares for more than 30 elephants ranging from 70-year-old matriarchs to eight-month-old babies. Full contact, under the supervision of their mahouts, is possible, and it was amazing to be so up close and personal with these majestic creatures for a day, bathing them in the river, feeding them chunks of watermelon and allowing for a kiss in return! Volunteer programmes are available for those keen to spend a week or month among these beauties. Visit elephantnaturefoundationuk.org To understand and appreciate the history of North Thailand cuisine, I joined a small but highly recommended cooking class. Being only three of us, we received the undivided attention of our hostess Win at her home-based cookery school.
Keen to try the most traditional dishes of Chiang Mai, it was suggested I cook Gaeng Massaman Nua (Beef Curry), Pad Krapao Gai (fried chicken with holy basil and chilli) and the famous Thai Papaya Salad. Surprisingly, there is a strong Indian influence in the food here (considering the proximity to China) which resulted in the liberal use of fresh cardamom fruits, cumin and garam masala in these fragrant and mouthwatering curries.
We cooked up a feast and came away feeling satisfied with our newly-acquired skills, comprehensive recipe books and contented tummies. Visit chiangmai1.com/restaurants/ classichomecooking.shtml Don’t hurry your time here – on leaving Chiang Mai, I really wished I had a further few days to spend in this cultural paradise. With so much still to absorb and experience as well as the genuine welcome that earns the Thai people the reputation of The Land Of Smiles, it was a joy to be able to share a moment in this wonderful, happy city.
- Read more about Carla ter Maat’s adventures in South East Asia in Seven Days Magazine on Saturday, May 31
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