The whole hog

But its author, Tom Rea, insists the task isn’t as intimidating as it might sound.

In the book Rea instructs readers on the best ways to cook different cuts of pork and explains techniques such as pan roasting and pot roasting before building up to cooking the whole animal. It’s no small affair admittedly, but well worth the work for an event or special occasion.

Born and raised on a livestock farm in Kingston, Rea is passionate about good food and particularly about good meat. His father was renowned for the quality of his livestock and from an early age the 27- year-old developed a respect for quality produce and a keen interest in cooking.

At 19, he started to cook professionally for Glyndebourne Opera House after an unexpected departure saw him promoted suddenly from pot washer to chef. He went on to work at the Coach And Horses in Danehill before joining the Jolly Sportsman in East Chiltington. He is now head chef at Bill’s in Lewes.

Despite his experience, writing a book was not something he had ever considered. But an accident in early 2011 left him with time on his hands and a desperate need for a new focus.

Despite growing up with the seemingly greater hazards of “cars, guns and motorbikes”, it was coming off his bicycle that proved his undoing. He snapped several bones in his left arm – something of a problem for a left-hander.

“After years of working 16-hour days in kitchens, being unable to work really taught me the true meaning of boredom.

I was desperate for something to focus my attention on,” says Rea. When he came across a publisher looking for a cook to write a new title, he found exactly that.

As someone who suffers from dyslexia, Rea was nervous about taking on the project.

“But I realised what a fantastic opportunity it was and worked day and night to get it done.”

Rather than detailing dozens of recipes, How To Roast A Pig instead helps readers to understand different cooking techniques which in turn will allow them to come up with their own recipes. Each section starts with the basics, setting out a step-by-step guide to cooking a particular joint of meat “to perfection” as Rea is fond of saying.

“All roasting techniques are accompanied by two everyday examples of how you can alter the cooking process to change the dish, plus one signature dish to wow your guests.”

With confidence built up, Rea finally proceeds to cooking a whole pig, both on a spit-roast and in a Caja China roasting box, used for centuries in South America and now gaining popularity over here too.

Although something of a specialist topic, Rea believes there’s lots to be taken from the book, even if one never actually goes the whole hog.

“I wanted to make the book accessible to everyone.

Even if you never actually cook a whole pig, you’ll learn how to oven, pan and pot roast to perfection.

It’s what chefs are taught when they come into the kitchen and then you explain how to adapt it.

“But having learnt all that, when you get to the final chapter you realise how incredibly simple it is to do a whole roast. More importantly, it’s utterly delicious.”

* Tom Rea’s How To Roast A Pig is due for release on June 1, published by Quarry and priced £16.99.